Bothered by an increasing number of gray hairs popping up around your crown? Or has what started as a smattering become an epidemic?
Tried to cover them yourself only to discover these little rascals can be more resistant to coloring than you ever imaged? Frustrating, isn’t it?
But that doesn’t mean you have to empty your wallet or just let them take over.
Still finding out how to deal with YOUR color resistant grays yourself can take next to forever and who has time for that?
So what we’ve done is spent a little time doing some research. It turned up some useful ideas. Ideas that will hopefully show you how to best cover those pesky gray roots and make the color last longer.
Quick Section Navigation
- Why is Gray Hair More Resistant to Hair Dye?
- VIDEO: Madison Reed Tutorial
- Is Permanent, Semi or Demi Dye Best?
- The Right Developer Mixed In The Right Ratio Matters
- Why Use The Bowl And Brush Method?
- Where to Start
Why is Gray Hair More Resistant to Hair Dye?
Before we get into the why, if you’re looking for a “resistant hair meaning” it’s basically strands that don’t take color well. Often those turn out to be white or gray.
Now gray hair is harder to color than pigmented hair for several reasons. Here are five of the biggest problems with coloring gray hair:
Now for a bit more explanation…
- Gray hair has no pigment, which means it has no natural color to support the artificial one. Plus you often need a darker shade of dye to cover the grays.
- It is coarser and drier than pigmented hair, which makes it harder to absorb the dye. Some find they need a stronger developer to open up the cuticle to let the color in.
- Being more porous than pigmented hair means it tends to lose color faster. This calls for a color-safe shampoo and conditioner to keep the dye from fading or turning brassy for as long as possible.
- Gray hair has a different texture and structure than pigmented hair which some call wiry. It’s also more prone to damage and breakage. You need to moisturize and protect your hair before and after coloring.
- Could be too that grays grow faster than pigmented hair. Leaving you needing to touch up your roots more often. Tip: You need to use the same shade and technique every time to avoid uneven looking results.
To overcome these challenges, you need to choose the right products and techniques for coloring gray hair at home. Here are two tips to keep in mind:
- Apply the color to your gray roots first, as they are the most resistant and need more time to process. Use a tint brush to saturate each section thoroughly and to avoid missing any spots.
- Let the color process for the proper amount of time, usually between 30 to 45 minutes, depending on the product instructions and your hair type. Check the color every 10 minutes to monitor the progress to avoid over-processing.
Now that you have a bit better understanding of the why let’s look at the how.
Here’s a demonstration video that shows how to color the new growth grays. It walks you through the steps to take to increase the odds of a successful outcome.
And yes it’s kinda an infomercial for Madison Reed. But I felt the approach shared was worthwhile so hopefully you’ll be able look past the soft sell included at no charge.
VIDEO Tutorial: Coloring Uncooperative Stubborn Gray Hair
Unless you have hair that’s on the shorter side divide yours into four sections clipping them up out of the way. Working with smaller sections decreases the odds you’re going to miss something.
Which reminds me. It’s never smart to skip sectioning. Makes it hard to manage the coloring and keep track of what you’ve done or not. Which makes it easy to miss patches to huge swaths of hair.
To prevent staining apply barrier cream or plain ole Vaseline along your hairline and on your ears. Taking care not to get any on the grays you’re targeting however. If you do you likely won’t get much if any color penetration on any strands so covered.
Then there are two ways to apply the dye.
If you want to jump directly to see either of the two methods in action here’s the time stamps.
- 1:46 Bottle Application Method
- 2:07 Bowl and Brush Application method
She herself prefers the brush and bowl method. Finding that easier than the bottle application of the color.
Here’s why. She feels the thinner brush gives more control and insures better coverage. So if you find you’re missing spots this may be the way to go.
Regardless of which method you use you want to be sure to fully saturate your hair with coloring.
BIG IDEA: The idea here is to work with very thin sections of hair at a time. Then ladle on the formula to insure total saturation.
When done with one thin parting make another. (She compares it to flipping pages in a book. A good way to look at it if you ask me.)
Then apply the dye to the new roots. Repeat until you’ve completed the section you’re coloring.
Wondering how much extra processing time to allow for those resistant grays?.
Tip: In this case Madison Reed suggests adding 10 minutes onto their typical 35 color processing time.
So when it comes to how long to leave hair dye on grey roots you too may simply want to add around 10 minutes the processing time suggested on your box dye.
Unsure about when to start tracking processing time?
Tip: Here Madison Reed suggests you start after you’ve completed the application. Not when you start. That’s when to set the timer on your cell.
For that reason apply the color as quickly as you can.
Not mentioned in the video …. when your color is done processing wash your mane with cool water using a gentle shampoo designed for colored hair. Rinse with cool water.
As you know it’s always a good idea to apply a deep moisturizing treatment after coloring. Then let it sit as instructed on the label. Finally rinse that out with color water too.
Then going forward wash less often with cooler water.
Summary:
- Some sort of barrier cream is a good idea
- More skinny sections are better than fewer fatter ones
- You’ll likely get more complete coverage using the bowl and brush method
- Don’t be stingy with the color – make sure the hair is fully saturated
- Processing time starts when the last strand is coated with dye
- Add 10 minutes to the recommended processing time on your box for resistant grays
That tutorial should give you the help you need to start dealing better with those pesky color resistant gray hairs.
Otherwise if you’re like a few more ideas keep reading.
Does A Permanent, Semi Or Demi Color Give You The Best Gray Coverage?
So when it comes to coloring resistant gray hair should you use permanent or semi or demi dye?
Guess it depends on what you’re hoping to accomplish.
For lasting, total coverage you can’t beat a permanent color. All the more if you’ve got hard to color grays. It offers the most potent, concentrated and lasting pigment for gray coverage you can get.
Tip: Generally the coarser your hair, the more likely you’ll need a permanent color option. Something to keep in mind when dealing with uncooperative gray hair.
For that reason most stylists rate semi or demi permanent hair colors as less effective for covering resistant gray hair.
Why is that? Being a deposit only color they have a lower concentration of pigment. That will not penetrate the hair shaft. And probably won’t cover resistant grays much if at all.
They also tend to fade more quickly. With demi maybe lasting only six to eight shampooings. While semi goes maybe 16 to 20 some – if you’re lucky. Depending on how gentle the shampoo you use naturally.
There’s also the risk of uneven or patchy coverage especially on very stubborn grays.
They’re more suitable for blending or enhancing gray hair rather than covering it completely.
Still some like how a semi only deposits color.
Others suggest starting there to see what success you have. Knowing you can always step up to a permanent dye if need be.
One more thing that may affect how well any dye type works for you is how much of your hair is gray. The more gray the less likely it is you’ll find happiness with a semi or demi product.
Tip: When using semi or demi permanent hair color, you may want to use a clarifying shampoo before coloring. It will remove any product buildup or mineral deposits that may hamper color absorption.
The Right Developer Mixed In The Right Ratio Matters
Let’s quickly touch on peroxides or developers.
Most resistant grays need their cuticles opened to accept the dye. You do that with developer or hydrogen peroxide.
The levels are 10, 20, 30 and 40. Each delivers different levels of lift. Most stylists agree that the sweet spot for grays like this is level 20.
Tip: It’s not enough to just use the right one. You need use it in the proper ratio. That will be found in the instructions in your dye kit.
Why Use The Bowl And Brush Method?
According to some, the bowl and brush method is best for applying hair dye for four reasons
- you get a more precise and even application,
- better saturation and coverage,
- less mess with fewer runs and drips,
- and you end up with a more professional-looking result
Just takes an inexpensive color applicator brush. One that helps you spread the dye on your roots evenly.
Also the dye application is aided by the bristles. You see they help drive it deep into the strands insuring more complete coverage.
Did You Know? The bowl and brush method is also how most licensed professional colorists do it in salons.
Plus there are those who feel using the applicator bottle can result in patchiness.
Obviously it ultimately depends on your personal preference. But most prefer the bowl and brush method.
Where to Start
If you know where your most resistant patches are start there. They’ll absorb the color the slowest.
Others like to start around the hairline. Because that’s what everyone sees.
So giving them more to process is a wise thing to do since we said the clock doesn’t start ticking until every gray is covered.
I hope it’s obvious everyone’s hair is different. And no ideas work for everyone. Yeah, there is some trial and error involved. But what you’ve learned here might give you a place to start that process.
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